Regardless of who owns the brand, the elegance of Luke and Lucie Meier’s Jil Sander has drawn in a new generation of fans craving premium construction and clean shapes, motifs that have informed every seasonal collection since the couple took over co-creative direction. Fall/Winter 2021 strips things back a bit from FW20’s nomadic offering, retaining the quietly luxurious cues but refining the ethos to straightforward shapes.
Classic menswear — suits, knit sweaters and overcoats — are exaggerated, with lengthened proportions that speak to an air of relaxation. Themes of strength and vulnerability manifest in the prim silver jewelry and Florence Henri’s Bauhaus artist portraits, printed or woven with fringe atop loose layers, mirroring the delicacy of woven or long-line shirts crafted from Jil Sander’s signature cotton poplin.
Strong, weighty boots protect against the elements and boost the presence of trench coats realized with dramatic collars and double-breasted wool coats. Plush nappa leather bags and elegantly draped hood pulls channel a sense of opulence that gently overrides the rugged inspiration behind technical puffer anoraks and glossy overshirts, finding the utilitarian cues hidden within draped grace.