Jil Sander FW20 Delivered Sophisticated Menswear Nomads

A handcrafted hybrid of wardrobe staples and futuristic garb.

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As guest designers at Pitti Immagine Uomo 97, Lucie and Luke Meier served up a cohesive Fall/Winter 2020 collection that underpinned their understated design ethos. Channeling their preferred minimalist touchstones, the duo presented a collection that built upon the handcrafted detailing seen in past offerings, updating effortless, draping suits with an artisanal eye.

Precise tailoring creates sharp lines, underpinned by subtle tweaks; for instance, lapels are minimized or removed and pants are pressed and sport crops or immense turn-ups. Elsewhere, heritage touches are exaggerated, with dangling epaulets, thigh-length sweater-vests and billowing slacks casually upsetting the crisp proportions. Hand-hammered brooches, delicate jewels and fringed accents lend a gentle contrast to the strictness of suiting, complemented by clunky leather hiking shoes.

Staple silhouettes, like biker jackets and polo shirts, are extended into coats and sweaters, reimagined in lavish raw-edged silk and Shetland wool and executed in an ultra-versatile color palette of midnight blue, beige, sage, black and white. Delicate embroidery further undercuts the masculine, strong-shouldered silhouettes, as do watercolor-like prints that grace volumnious shirting and the deep leather bucket bags, totes and shoppers.

Check out the luxuriously low-key looks above and scope the recent runway presentations of Wales Bonner and Nicholas Daley for more thoughtful Fall/Winter 2020 looks.

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