JIEDA‘s evolution from edgy streetwear line to fully-fledged menswear brand has been particularly salient recently, as designer Hiroyuki Fujita transitions his imprint to deliver runway-ready offerings. Fall/Winter 2020 was a landmark bridging of JIEDA’s burgeoning street and sartorial leanings and Spring/Summer 2021 further explores the delicate middle ground bridging the disparate influences.
Dubbed “Entitlement,” SS21 sees JIEDA delivering a bevy of disparate shapes, textures and cuts, with a predilection for the loose: suits are rendered baggy, shirts feature giant sleeves and bleached jeans are appropriately immense. Compared to its Paris, Texas-inspired SS18 range, JIEDA is clearly channeling a more tailoring-driven aesthetic, informed by shirt-jackets cut form suiting wool and elegant pleated slacks, stitched with a faux “PARENTAL ADVISORY” sticker. There’s plenty of retro ’90s flair, however, led by raw-seamed jeans, hybrid denim/leather blazers and striped turtleneck shirts.
“Everybody has the right to enjoy fashion,” Fujita explained. “2020 almost made me forget how to enjoy fashion. It made me think of myself when I was a teenager, a very sensitive one. I wanted to define my territory, I wanted to be popular, I wanted to grow up and be seen as an adult by adults.”
Check out the SS21 collection above and JIEDA’s accompanying “Entitlement” short film, directed by Yohei Haga, below.