Engineered Garments designer Daiki Suzuki draws from an eclectic series of inspirations each season — from the New Romantic movement to gardening — without sacrificing the accessibility that makes the New York-based brand so eminently popular across the globe. Fall/Winter 2020 draws from the style of effortlessly cool jazz musicians, taking particular cues from Miles Davis’ adventurous ’80s wardrobe.
Suzuki’s creative process began by considering “how [Davis] would wear Ivy League fashion to the Newport Jazz Festival. His evolution, stylistically and musically made me reflect on my own. … The tone in color and mood is somber black, which is a color not found too often in my collection. … Stylistic flows and evolution that are modern jazz, [that] is the way I handled this latest collection; balance and tune.”
Appropriately dubbed “Balance and Tune,” FW20 is a rambunctious assortment of EG classics and progressive accents. Bondage straps encircle tweed suits, playful snakeskin enlivens collarless coats and flannel boasts a splashy flocking print for a bold impression and texture. The muted affair mixes shocking madras plaids in between understated charcoal tailoring, navy parkas and olive corduroy cargo pants, further enhanced by an exaggerated tweed pattern that graces berets, coats and jackets. Mismatched New Balance 993 sneakers hint at a sneaker collaboration to come, while leather slip-ons, hiking boots and brogued derbies underline the sophistication proffered by the suit-and-tie styling.
Look for NEPENTHES London’s web store, global NEPENTHES boutiques and Engineered Garments stockists to offer the FW20 range later this year.