Samuel Ross’ decision to show in Paris for the Spring/Summer 2023 show season, was a calculated and innovative move for A-COLD-WALL*. This being the brand’s first collection presented in the fashion capital, marked a showing of techno-cool and elevated performance wear along with the reveal of an exclusive Timberland collaboration.
ACW*’s Paris debut didn’t consist of a traditional runway show but instead utilized an installation space with garments suspended in the air, allowing individuals to see the collection up-close. Merino knits, loopback jerseys, treated cotton and stained fabrics were shown in the form of sleeveless vests, car coats, puffer jackets and painted denim.
Subdued colors including cool blue, yellow, grey, white, tan and black dominated the collection, while footwear silhouettes followed in a similar hue, as the brand’s partnership with Dr. Marten’s resurfaced for a fifth iteration.
The ACW* x Timberland collab features a navy blue Sebago-style loafer with grommeted eyelets and matching laces, side logo placement and a contrasting light grey outsole. On the ready-to-wear side, a tan padded vest and a tan, treated cotton parka (with back logo placement), set the tone for collection items that will drop soon.
Speaking to HYPEBEAST about the design approach for SS23, Ross says: “We develop modules within the brand itself, and are very logical before going into any hyper expressive rummaging of ideas.”
“This is our form of storytelling between the main season and a pre-season, and there’s more to come,” he adds.
Elsewhere in men’s fashion week, Casablanca’s SS23 collection takes fashion to Mexico’s western frontier.