Staying at Paris Fashion Week — having returned for Spring/Summer 2019 – Raf Simons unveiled a more stripped-back collection for Fall/Winter 2019, his first show since leaving Calvin Klein. The location — the grand, gold-lined ballroom of Shanghai-La hotel — was a long way from previous Simons settings such as Manhattan’s Sir Stage 37 for Fall/Winter 2018 and a warehouse the Parisian suburb Montreuil for Spring/Summer 2019.
Despite the location, the show featured a number of signature reference points. The first section of the show was soundtracked by Joy Division, a frequent influence throughout Simons’ work, while the second section featured a live performance. The loud industrial music and colorful light changes made the grand location seem more like the nightclubs that Simons is more commonly associated with.
The collection itself was notable for its low-key aesthetic. The stand-out pieces were mainly outerwear, with long coats coming constructed from wool, leather and corduroy, while Simons referenced one of his most famous archival designs with another military-inspired parka. Other motifs included x-ray bones images, hooks hanging butterflies and flowers, and references to David Lynch’s 1986 film Blue Velvet.
Get a first look at Raf Simons’ Fall/Winter 2019 collection in the gallery above. For more from Paris Fashion Week, take a look at UNDERCOVER’s Fall/Winter 2019 show.