SANKUANZ "Chapter III LA VEUVE NOIRE" FW23 Collection

Every season, SANKUANZ offers up a conversation subverting forward-thinking design styles with rather cerebral themes. For SS23, its discussion on the circle of life came to be through analytically form-focused silhouettes that fused modernity and class. Now for the Fall/Winter 2023 season, the brand is expanding its scope on blended dress notes – showcasing that high fashion and streetwear belong in the same sentence.

Titled “Chapter III LA VEUVE NOIRE,” which translates to The Black Widow, the collection reveals a desire for danger and blood – much like the arachnid creature. But in the exploration of darker themes and danger’s production of fear, anxiety and bravery comes the collection’s multifaceted design philosophy.

As always, tailoring remains a touchstone for the brand with the way founder/creative director Shangguan weaves classic silhouettes with reimagined design details. Tuxedo-inspired blazers are met with strong shoulders, elongated satin lapels and fluid yet concise trousers. Beyond the formal, other tailored styles reveal three-pocket suits whose blazers extend past the shoulder and relaxed pants that softly sway with each step. Although the pieces by nature are rather dressed up, they retain a street-ready quality.

Blissful colors enter the scene through fanciful graffiti prints. The double-breasted suiting, wrap dresses, sweatsuits, hoodies and oversized denim that they touch nod to coexisting design styles. Elsewhere, traditional streetwear notes come to play through oversized zip-up hoodies, bomber jackets, relaxed floor-hugging jeans and calm tracksuits. Besides the pops of colorful graffiti and camouflage, the collection largely appears in deep shades of black, stone blue, slate gray and deep mahogany – channeling nostalgic notions of 70s-80s style.