Elegant Painted Uniforms Marched Dior's Winter 2021 Runway

Kim Jones’ latest menswear collection was heavily informed by Peter Doig’s lush illustrations.

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Under Kim Jones‘ direction, Dior‘s menswear collections have been heavily informed by seasonal partnerships with far-ranging artists, ranging from streetwear favorites like KAWS to auction house regularslike Raymond Pettibon. Peter Doig is the latest creative to partner with the luxury house and the Scottish-born painter’s influence is heavily felt throughout much of this offering, informing the color palette, pattern and even the wool felt hats created by milliner Stephen Jones.

Winter 2021 presents another selection of refined tailoring, channeling an air of militaria by way of “the masculine extravagance of ceremonial garb,” according to the house. The Dior man is not slouching around in hoodies and sweatpants, but that doesn’t mean that the apparel is stiff and rigid; Jones’ team cut cozy turtleneck sweaters, boxy overcoats, billowing gowns and pooling trousers, balancing the apparel’s apparent formality with generous silhouettes and lavish fabrication.

Doig’s swirling brushstrokes translate into embroidered accents and knit sweaters, printing Doig’s Milky Way atop a peak lapel coat and a sculpted lion figure on shirting, belts and Yoon‘s jewelry. The vibrant imagery plays off the subverted militaristic codes, juxtaposing Doig’s gentle artwork against camouflaged anoraks and tailored waistcoats. Bold yellow layering pieces and baroque trims are an appropriate middle ground, uniting the disparate codes rather than comprising artistic vision.

Other recent Paris Fashion Week presentations include FW21 collections from OAMC, Yohji Yamamoto and Dries Van Noten.

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