London’s schedule is usually packed and hectic – and this season was no exception. This pace means it becomes easy to miss designers that would be of interest but maybe aren’t on the tip of everyone’s tongue. Day two is the marquee day but day three is known to start the day a name big enough to prevent visiting press and buyers not to overdo it the night prior – as always, the first show of the day was J.W. Anderson, who continued to showcase clothes that were very J.W.Anderson. Although it must be noted that the likes of Union Los Angeles and Très Bien have been buying a much more wearable version of the designer’s work, showing that it’s not all sheer skintight shirts with embroidered penguins.
But elsewhere Sunday was a day of sleeper hit collections. First up was Berthold who, according to the press release, focused on the rhythms of restriction. What this meant in clothing terms was that the designer continued playing with silhouettes, creating loose fit tracksuits and hoodies alongside utilitarian garments such as denim and chore jackets and giving them a point of difference with elongated sleeves. Speaking in pure hypebeast terms, there’s more than enough here that’ll slot extremely easily alongside some more standard streetwear pieces. Stand-out items include the furry cardigan/bomber jacket, the deep purple tracksuit and a black overcoat.
Martine Rose made a triumphant return to the schedule with a catwalk show this season. In the past Rose has perhaps been a bit too far ahead of her time, as the designer has straddled streetwear and fashion in a way that many UK observers didn’t quite know how to take in. But the current climate is much more open to experimentation in that manner, so it makes perfect sense for Rose to make a catwalk return.
Rose based her show in Tottenham’s Seven Sisters Market, several worlds away from fashion’s usual rarefied locations. The show was based on subversion of masculine archetypes, taking the classic uniform of the banker, office worker and bus driver and twisting them into something worthy of a runway show. While the styling may throw some observers off, there’s more than enough here that’d work in everyday life, such as the trousers (particularly the peach and burgundy pleated ones), hoodies and knitwear.
If there’s anything to be taken away from day three, it’s that few things are more London than a runway show influenced by bankers taking place inside a market that’s closer to Skepta’s house than any fashion venue.
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