Grace Ling SS25 is “Primitive Chic”

The CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalist presented a runway collection characterized by duality, showing off graceful silhouettes juxtaposed with rugged 3D printed elements.

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Grace Ling cemented her status as one to watch by bringing forth innovative collections that rethink tailoring and knitwear. The label seamlessly blends sensuality with surrealism, utilizing 3D technology to create sculptural forms — and it’s that forward-thinking design approach that landed the designer a spot as CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalist.

For the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Neanderthal,” the elements were brought to life through elegant gowns, seemingly windswept skirts, and striking metal mini dresses and bodices. Ling wanted to play upon the intimate and complex relationship between humans and the spaces we occupy, whether that may be wide open, natural spaces or busting metropolises.

The show’s set featured a black, volcanic rock, complete with an eerie fog that engulfed guests as models cascaded down the runway. Simultaneously, New York City’s skyline contrasted with the ethereal setting. The show’s diverse cast, including Alex Consani, Precious Lee, former WNBA player Elizabeth Cambage, and more showed off a balance of ready-to-wear and couture looks.

The SS25 collection’s understated, neutral color palette allowed each silhouette to take center stage. Each look displayed some of Grace Ling’s signature strong suits: structured hemlines, subtly sexy draping, and technical elements that push the needle — such as an entirely 3D-printed metal dress akin to a barbed-wire bird’s nest. But for this range, the designer displayed a new sense of femininity: femininity as power. This duality reflected the contrasting elements of each look — though distressed or rugged at first glance, Ling’s pristine craftsmanship shined through.

Explore Grace Ling Spring/Summer 2025 in the gallery above and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more on New York Fashion Week.

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