Ferragamo SS25 Honors Its History in Ballet
Designer Maximilian Davis referenced founder Salvatore Ferragamo’s intimate moments with dancer Katherine Dunham and custom ’80s ballerina shoes for Rudolf Nureyev.
Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo has hit its stride. The 29-year-old designer, who only debuted at the Italian fashion house’s helm in September of 2022, has successfully turned the century-old label into a sought-after name among fashion folk by merging its historical identity with elements of his own: his Caribbean heritage, his London club days and his eccentricity, to name a few.
For Spring 2025, Davis looked to Ferragamo’s history in ballet — that of the brand’s founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, whose intimate moments with dancer Katherine Dunham and custom ’80s ballerina shoes for Rudolf Nureyev were centered on the mood board.
“I’ve always incorporated different historical eras in my work – eras which feel relatable to me and my heritage,” said Davis, who also referenced shoes being fit on Black women in mid-century Florence. “At Ferragamo, I’ve sought out similarities – and the beauty of this brand is that there are so many different stories you can relate to. Every shoe has a meaning behind it. Every shoe has a story.”
Balletic codes fuel the lineup, with practice uniforms galvanizing form-fitting, twisted and tied cashmere layers alongside silk, nylon, suede and organza opera coats. Nureyev’s signature wardrobe informed the collection’s oversized pieces, while Dunham’s mid-century aesthetic brought out the sequin embroideries, which turned contemporary via resin finishes.
Davis’ Caribbean flair beamed through frayed stonewashed denim and rubber jelly moccasins, offering a raw departure from the line’s otherwise pure silhouettes. Meanwhile, Ferragamo’s classic leather craftsmanship roped the collection together: ready-to-wear arrived in intricate Gancini iterations, while the Hug bag employed the House’s age-old artistry.
See Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week coverage.
