Jil Sander SS27 Puts a Wrinkle In Its Minimalism
Creative director Simone Bellotti introduces off-kilter elegance and deliberate flaws to the Milan-based luxury label.
Summary
Simone Bellotti's third Jil Sander show aimed to inject fragility and vulnerability into the brand's minimalist DNA.
Rooted in coats, trousers, and pencil skirts, the show used puckering, bubble hems, and imperfect tailoring alongside light fabrics and warm neutrals, making the label feel more approachable.
At Jil Sander’s Spring/Summer 2027 runway show on September 23, models appeared as if they’d been hit by a gust of wind or just rolled out of bed. For his third show at the Milan-based house, creative director Simone Bellotti challenged himself to bring fragility and vulnerability to quintessential Jil Sander silhouettes, because “minimalism has become so mainstream.”
Shown at the historic Piazza Castello headquarters in Milan, the latest collection explores movement, rhythm, and transformation — balancing laser-focused minimalism and precise tailoring with deliberate wrinkles, soft textures, and effortless fluidity. Bellotti’s latest collection opened with archetypal Jil Sander’s pieces: flared slacks, airy collared shirts, and argyle sweater dresses, crescendoing into the disruption — oversized trenches gathered around the midsection, blazers with intentional wrinkles, and collars of the shirts sticking out above the jackets’ lapels. A sense of release followed: soft, voluminous dresses draped like sheets, asymmetrical pumps, textural pencil skirts with Japanese landscapes, and geometric bags.
The SS27 collection subverted the label’s traditionally powerful and minimalist uniform by introducing a touch of vulnerability and off-kilter elegance. Grounding his vision in classic pieces such as coats, trousers, and pencil skirts, Bellotti introduced deliberate twists, including high-buttoned jackets, experimental waist puckering, and bubble-hemmed dresses. Acknowledging that these avant-garde proportions might not flatter everyone, Bellotti’s embrace of light fabrics, a neutral and warm color palette, and conscious imperfections grounded the collection in a more approachable sensibility.
