Gucci SS27: Demna Distills His "Complete Personal Vision"
“Gucci stands for being rooted in the desire to belong to a more glamorous world, and in the audacity to remake that world in your own image,” he said in the show notes.
Summary
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Demna’s Gucci SS27 show in Milan debuted a subdued collection in a purpose-built boutique, a contrast to his earlier, more nightlife-inspired runway shows.
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Menswear featured tailored, prep-inspired looks with novel horsebit details, while womenswear highlighted ’80s-inspired office attire and asymmetrical evening gowns.
At Milan Fashion Week, Demna presented Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2027 “Store Show” in a massive purpose-built Gucci boutique, showcasing what the creative director called “my complete personal vision for the brand.” He concluded that “Gucci stands for being rooted in the desire to belong to a more glamorous world, and in the audacity to remake that world in your own image.”
The vision is toned down compared to what the designer presented for his debut runway show for Fall/Winter 2026 and the following Resort 2027 in New York City. Those shows leaned into the more extravagant aspects of the brand, from the flashy nightlife looks to the UK Underground rappers who made appearances on the runway and in the front row. Away from the nightclub and neon-lit streets, this show was clearly set during the day — or rather, store hours. While there are some sparkling moments, the range is subdued compared to the previous collections.
Beginning with menswear, the opening looks set a more tailored mood. A range of largely monochromatic black and white suiting was followed by bouts of prep-inspired style and streetwear. The prep-leaning looks, centering around regular-fit white khakis, were styled with Ivy classics: a tan Harrington jacket, a quilted navy jacket, and blazers worn over striped polo shirts and sweaters. In the more city-ready looks, leather came forward in jackets and accessories, along with more conspicuous red and green striped and monogrammed pieces. Notably, the signature horsebit loafer buckle was recontextualized in several ways: a recurring triple-stacked horsebit belt, a supersized horsebit trouser detail, and horsebit pocket buttons on shirting and outerwear.
The everyday-leaning feel of the menswear extended to the women’s collection that followed. Pointy shoulders dominated a swath of office-appropriate looks, including blouse and skirt sets at midi and mini lengths. A distinctly ’80s and ’90s feel emerged with pleated tartan midi skirts styled with puffy-sleeved jackets and branded chain necklaces. As he’s done before, Demna closed the show with more evening-leaning numbers: asymmetrical gowns, either gently draped or skin-tight, some sparkling, some jewel-toned, and some all-black or white.
The “Store Show” becomes a fitting narrative when the collection is seen in full, reading as quite a bit more commercial than his darker, alternative tendencies. However, with little moments, like the remixed horsebits, the monogrammed linings, and the gothic eye makeup, the collection was still riddled with Demna’s personal marks.
