GmbH FW22 Champions Your Inner It Boy
Contemplating the relationship between religion, couture and sex.
A hallmark of GmbH’s design ethos is its committed approach to elevated menswear that balances class and sensuality. Through its practice of developing the daring, the Berlin-based brand wants everyone to embrace their inner it boy. Titled “Talisman,” the label’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection expands the concept of fashion serving as one’s best suit of armor.
For founders/creative directors Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Işik, the new collection arose by contemplating the relationship between religion, couture and sex. Specifically, the collection draws a link between silk undergarments of 16th-century Ottoman soldiers and Işik’s grandfather. Like the soldiers whose robes featured hand-painted protective calligraphy, Işik’s grandfather wrote protective scriptures in Arabic for those in his village in Turkey. By looking inward and cultivating the phrase “Safe From Harm” that appeared in a dream, GmbH’s FW22 collection carries a deeper symbolism of fashion’s protective power.
The collection features only four principle shades of scarlet red, merlot, gray and black, which exhibit the power of color simplicity. Consisting of seamless tailoring, romantic silhouettes that hug the waist and voluminous construction details, the collection transforms garments like suits and overcoats. Tailoring is elevated by blazers with elongated shoulders, the brand’s signature wrap design for a multidimensional silhouette and relaxed pants that drape the ankles. Overcoats serve as the perfect complement with both eye-catching boxy structures and slim body-hugging designs. For an added touch, select overcoats are expanded by dramatic faux fur detailing on the collar and forearms in contrasting colors.
Featuring kaftans and tunics paired with thigh-high leather boots, Huseby and Işik exhibit that men showing skin can be just as sensual as it is powerful. Additionally, pieces like button-down shirts and pants are fixed with Arabic calligraphy detailing created by Syrian artist Abdelrazak Shaballot, which pays homage to the inspiration of protective scripture. A highlight of the collection is imaginative and voluminous tailored pieces with open backs that are inspired by French haute couture fashion designer, Jacques Fath. Finishing off the sensory collection are knitted skull caps and an array of silver and gold-plated jewelry.
Check out GmbH’s FW22 collection above, which is set to arrive in the coming months on the brand’s website.
In related news, JUUN.J takes off with a first-class flight to your new FW22 obsession.