JUUN.J is well-regarded for its imposing silhouettes and penchant for lavish leather looks. Spring/Summer 2020 was indicative of both, but offered mild restraint appropriate for hot weather — Fall/Winter 2020 does away with any hesitation and goes for the gusto, delivering immense, glistening leather get-ups.
Though they only appeared towards the end of the show, some jaw-droppingly wide puffer jackets emblazoned with “HOMMAGE’ATOMAGE” (translated as “Homage [to] AtomAge) verbiage laid out designer Jung Wook Jun’s seasonal inspiration. AtomAge was a publication and manufacturer founded by John Sutcliffe with a focus on leather garments both in relation to function (i.e. motorcycle jackets) and fetishism (i.e. head-to-toe bodysuits). Jun’s interpretation focuses on the leather side of the equation to ensure enhanced wearability over PVC or rubber.
From double-breasted jackets large enough for three people to gargantuan pleated dresses, Jun left no stone unturned in his quest to deliver the ultimate leather ensemble. Renditions of trench coats, balaclavas, cargo-pocketed vests and sleeveless blazers were all huge and crafted from the same black cowhide, though croc surfaced at points, bolstered by occasional hits of blue. JUUN.J proffered less substantial pieces to offset the leather onslaught, including stiff denim jackets, double-layered hoodies and ribbed sweaters.