Despite the departure of head designer Demna Gvasalia, Vetements‘ output has continued unabated. Ranging from assorted curios to an expansive Star Wars collaboration, the Switzerland-based brand has finally introduced its first ready-to-wear range without Gvasalia’s guiding hand.
Encompassing a host of house staples, the Fall/Winter 2020 range is classic Vetements. Boxy blazers, technical parkas, washed-out denim, floral dresses and slogan tees were all given their due, some new and some culled from the Vetement stable. Fresh ideas included a “VETEMENTS LIMITED EDITION” down jacket that parodied The North Face logo (worn over a timeless Vetements tonal baseball logo hoodie), a pair of cargo-pocketed biker jeans and enormous puffer coats, complete with the brand’s familiar “SECURITY” verbiage. Vetements’ proportion experiments continued with aplomb, as shoulders were squared off, rounded and exaggerated to offset nipped waists and extended hem lengths.
Along with a new assortment of heavy metal-inspired graphics and outré footwear (flip-flops and waist-high waders included), Vetements prepped a wide array of accessories, including branded fanny packs, belts and hats, the latter of which occasionally read “GVASALIA FOR PRESIDENT.” The bold prints that graced the garments ranged from “CENSORED” to simple Vetements branding, sometimes executed in glittering appliqué. Elsewhere, high-tech meshed with the informal, as slick metallic puffers and opaque raincoats met raw-hemmed sweaters and form-hugging leggings, driving a contrast that fits naturally with Vetements high-low oeuvre.