For Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s final KENZO collection yesterday at Paris Fashion Week Men’s — the creative directors had announced their impending departure earlier in the month — the Spring/Summer 2020 line-up was a fitting reminder of the strong Japanese influence and eclectic use of sportswear that the duo have groomed over the last eight years. Their propensity for artistic themes was also prevalent, using photographer Yamazaki Hiroshi’s long-exposure photographs of the sea as a strong backdrop for the aquatic looks.
“Prepare to dive into the KENZO Men’s and Women’s Spring/Summer 2020 show on Sunday,” the brand prefaced the event in an Instagram post. It’s seaside concept was grounded further by references to the “Ama” (Japanese female divers), threading scuba gear-inspired designs like tops, bags and pockets made of fishnet and graphics featuring mermaids and other nautical imagery throughout. Key pieces included a range of lightweight suits, track jackets and track pants all washed in shades reminiscent of the sun setting over the ocean, bouncing from bright yellow to ombré orange and teal and onto watercolor blues. Shoes served their part in the mix as well, anchored by colorblocked sandals and beach-ready mesh flats to complete the outfits.
As a testament to Lim and Leon’s impact at the French house for nearly a decade, a gang of celebrities packed out the venue, including a live performance by Solange. Meanwhile, individuals like J. Balvin, M.I.A., and Dev Hynes, among others, bid their final farewells from the front row.