Hands-On Spinnaker x /seconde/seconde's Steely "Fifty Phantoms" Watch

Reviewing the duo’s third collaborative timepiece and the first to feature a metal bracelet.

Watches
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With Halloween around the corner, Spinnaker has returned with another collaborative timepiece with Parisian creative Romaric André, better known as /seconde/seconde/. Marking their third project playing on the “Fifty Phantoms” theme, this release is a compelling continuation of the “phantom” concept that began in 2023. Spinnaker, which has consistently delivered maximum creativity in its collaborative creations, and /seconde/seconde/ once again merge horological craft with ghostly mischief.

One of the most significant changes in the 2025 Edition, compared to the initial “Fifty Phantoms” and the 2024 “Phantom Blue” version (which I covered last year), is the introduction of two distinct case dimensions for the first time. Collectors can now choose between the smaller Phantom Steel (40mm) and the larger Phantom White (43mm). The 40mm Phantom Steel uses the reliable M-MIY-9015-D3 Japan Automatic caliber and has a compact 12.9mm case thickness, while the 43mm Phantom White uses the M-SII-NH35-D3 Japan Automatic caliber and measures 13.9mm thick. Both feature a newly designed sunray-brushed bezel that mimics the phantom design, and an anti-reflection-coated sapphire lens.

The core design philosophy remains centered on spectral mischief, humor and transforming the dial into a thought-provoking canvas. This year’s release is cloaked in a new spectral gray dial, carrying forward the unmistakable “phantom” image where dozens of glowing ghosts flicker to life in the dark, joined by luminous indices and hands. The little ghost motifs have been reimagined with a more rounded form, while the bezel is a noteworthy highlight, now featuring an undulating form that’s reminiscent of the floating, flowing hems of sheet ghosts. This full-steel composition, from bezel to bracelet, with silvery tones on the dial, truly elevates the ghostly vibes. Additionally, the markings and numbers on the bezel are also lumed.

As the brand notes in their press release, “Hidden surprises lie within” — indeed, the ghostly vibes extend beyond just the watch and dial. A notable element is the additional white strap that accompanies the watch reveals a luminous glow when charged with UV light. This attention to detail extends to the case and caseback as well. The rotor, visible through the open caseback, is engraved with tally-markings and a pair of eyes; the tally totals exactly 50, echoing its “Fifty Phantoms” name, while the rotor itself swivels like a mischievous ghost, covering and revealing the inner workings. Both variants offer robust technical specs, maintaining a 15 ATM water resistance. The watches are presented on an upgraded bead-of-rice steel bracelet and come with an additional nylon strap.

On the wrist, the choice between 40mm and 43mm will significantly alter the feel, allowing collectors to opt for either a more compact aesthetic or a bolder, modern presence. While 40mm is still a few millimeters over the best size for my 140mm wrist circumference, the watch looks (and feels) surprisingly smaller when I wear it — an observation that I reckon is mainly due to the steel bracelet as opposed to the more stiff-rubber straps from the last two releases.

The new spectral gray dial offers a fresh take on the phantom effect established in the earlier blue and black dials. The Phantom Steel (40mm) is priced at $525 USD for the first batch, while the larger Phantom White (43mm) is slightly more accessible at $475 USD. While the first batch has already sold out during pre-order, a second pre-order window will soon be announced. For more details, keep an eye on Spinnaker’s Instagram or website.


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