Jacquemus Spring 2025 Bares It All
In the late architect Auguste Perret’s wooden apartment, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus debuted a ’50s-inspired line that was all about stripping, paring and throwing it back.
Something was noticeably raw about Simon Porte Jacquemus’ Spring 2025 show in Paris on Sunday. Titled “LA CROISIÈRE” (French for “CRUISE”), the intimate affair took place inside the pioneering French architect Auguste Perret’s rue Raynouard apartment, a stripped-back Art Deco showpiece of concrete and wood. Just 40 guests—Central Cee, Tyla and Hongjoong among them—were invited to witness the runway on the abode’s mismatched chairs. Models, including Christy Turlington and Adriana Lima, looked like they were straight out of the ’50s in enduring looks that were uncomplicated yet effective. And the entire spectacle was shot on an iPhone 16 Pro Max.
“With this collection, I want to bare myself before you, without artifice, just our silhouettes in the intimacy of Perret’s apartment,” said Jacquemus, known to put on massive destination fashion shows. (Revisit the designer’s Fall 2024 show in Capri, where attendees traveled to Casa Malaparte on tiny private boats.)
In the storied setting, Jacquemus’ latest designs looked like instant classics. Double-breasted blazers were especially crisp over harshly pleated dress trousers; minimal coats cinched at the waist, laying perfectly atop flowy, buttoned pants, and structured formal coats often found themselves in contrast with short-shorts. Women’s looks, like drop-waisted skirts and hourglass dresses, accentuated the human form with an old Hollywood-like glamour, and “naked” gowns, worn by Lima (on the runway) and Tyla (in the front row), had a more literal approach to Jacquemus’ baring agenda.
On foot, the line included a fresh addition to Jacquemus’ ongoing Nike collaboration: a renovation of the “Moon Shoe,” the sportswear giant’s first-ever sneaker that first met the world in 1972. Here, the archival silhouette appeared in a yellowy hue with the brand’s signature Waffle sole.
Overall, Jacquemus’ Spring 2025 show was especially intentional: not only was it about paring back, but it was about throwing it back, too. Revived modernism, just like the ’50s.
See Jacquemus’ Spring 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
