Ami Paris SS27 Finds Its Sharpest Construction Moves in the Spaces Between Structure and Softness
Semi-lined suiting, Nappa leather hardware, and a trompe l’oeil sole define the SS27 offering.
Summary
Ami Paris SS27 builds its silhouette around deconstructed, semi-lined and fully unlined tailoring in fine wools, fluid silks, and crisp poplins, with nylon technical garments rounding out the fabrication range
The Boyfriend Bag arrives in supple Nappa leather with an unstructured break-in silhouette, while the Bingo Bag introduces a sliding metal sphere that toggles between shoulder and crossbody carry
Footwear spans retro collegiate sneakers, a reworked Mirage running shoe in standard and athletic versions, injected-rubber slip-ons, and lace-ups built around a trompe l'oeil effect
Ami Paris has presented its Spring-Summer 2027 collection, designed by Alexandre Mattiussi, at the former Cartier Foundation in Paris. The collection is built around a specific tension between tailoring precision and sportier construction, with deconstructed, semi-lined, and fully unlined suiting sitting alongside nylon technical pieces, vintage-washed jerseys, and cargo constructions across a palette running from pure white and pearl-gray monochromes to ruby red, ochre, and cobalt blue.
The tailoring is where the construction decisions are most legible. Shapes are softened and deconstructed, with semi-lined and completely unlined constructions shifting the weight and drape of suiting away from traditional structure. The effect is a silhouette described in the collection notes as liberated: contrasting volumes place sharp fitted lines against loose oversized proportions, producing a dynamic flow within individual looks rather than across the collection as a whole. Fine wools handle the more structured end of the tailoring range, while fluid silks and crisp poplins operate at either extreme of the texture spectrum, creating what the press release frames as a constant dialogue between structure and suppleness.
Nylon garments and bags extend the fabrication conversation into technical territory. Performance materials appear in the sneaker range, grounding the footwear in a functional fabrication logic that runs parallel to the tailoring deconstruction happening across the ready-to-wear.
The Boyfriend Bag is constructed from supple Nappa leather and designed around an unstructured, broken-in silhouette that takes on shape progressively with wear. The approach positions the bag as a material object that develops character through use rather than arriving finished, which is a specific construction philosophy distinct from structured leather goods. The Bingo Bag takes a different approach, its identity centred on a sliding metal sphere that functions simultaneously as a signature design detail and a practical hardware element, enabling an adjustable shoulder-to-crossbody carry within a soft overall silhouette. The hardware mechanism is the bag’s defining construction feature, and the functional logic of the sphere distinguishes it from purely decorative closure treatments.
Ami’s footwear moves across several distinct construction categories. The retro collegiate sneakers work in performance materials, while the Mirage running shoe appears in two versions: a standard reissue and a bold athletic build. Injected-rubber slip-ons sit at the more utilitarian end of the footwear range, while lace-ups featuring a trompe l’oeil effect introduce an illusionistic surface treatment to the construction story, with the visual detail working against the expectation of the silhouette.
The palette runs from pure white and pearl-gray monochromes through natural tones, with ruby red, ochre, and cobalt blue functioning as colour breaks rather than dominant notes. Graphic prints, joyful stripes, and vintage-washed t-shirts complete the surface texture range. Jewellery arrives as stackable designs and Parisian-inspired charms featuring hearts, streetlamps, and newspapers, with throwback sunglasses as a finishing accessory layer.
