Kim Jones Offers a Dramatic and Poetic Reimagination of House Codes for Dior FW25
Taking inspiration from the house’s archives dating back to the ’40s.
Kim Jones has done it again with his Dior Men’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Shown during Paris Fashion Week at the École Militaire, attendees entered a militant grey fortress and were immediately greeted by a sprawling, illuminated staircase. The front row was sprawling with the house’s dearest friend — including Robert Pattinson, Kate Moss and Jay Chou.
Usual Dior fashion show attendees are always eager to know what Jones has up his sleeves when it comes to the set. Since Jones started at Dior, his set has been a major part of his collection’s storytelling. Jones told Hypebeast exclusively, “The set does reflect how we stripped everything back this season. I wanted to reflect that simplicity and rigour and yet give the sense of something monumental — it reinforces the ideas behind the collection. I always think of the set and the music at the same time as I think of the collection — they’re indivisible to me.”
Jones references Monsieur Dior’s classic “H Line” from the namesake visionary’s Fall 1954 haute couture collection. Every piece was designed with the illusion of a longer silhouette and the archival line saw double-breasted formals that were shaped in the letter of the “H” itself. Jones saw that elements of the Ligne H including the graphic and angular shape could be transferrable in the menswear world. This season, the notion of metamorphosis runs throughout the collection, from slippage of time periods to the changes of the garments of the archive from feminine to masculine.
The beginning and end of the show saw Jones intertwine ready-to-wear with more formal presentations to feature more couture-like silhouettes. Ethereal elegance becomes the main theme of the collection, reflecting a sense of simplicity that is clean, sophisticated and timeless. Continuing to take inspiration from the archive, the main embroidery in the collection comes from Monsieur Dior’s Spring/Summer 1948 Haute Couture “Pondichéry” look and is recreated in the final pink robe look that closes the show. Fashion history runs through this collection, shifting from the extravagance from the 18th century to the more linear and utilitarian shapes of the 19th century. Applying these notions to Dior Men’s FW25 collection, Kim Jones brings a contemporary lens to archival silhouettes, creating a timeless and forever collection.
