Jacquemus FW24: 15 Years of Real Fashion Innovation
At Capri’s historic Casa Malaparte, the Simon Porte Jacquemus-led label delivered a milestone collection of brand signatures — finished with a runway appearance from BLACKPINK’s Jennie.
Private boats transported famous passengers, like Dua Lipa, Gwyneth Paltrow and Manu Rios, through the deep-blue waters on the eastern tip of Capri, the Italian island where Jacquemus chose to stage his 15th anniversary runway show for Fall/Winter 2024 on Monday. Their destination was Casa Malaparte, the villa designed by Italian rationalist architect Adalberto Libera for writer Curzio Malaparte in the 1930s — and the sartorial diving board for the Jacquemus label in 2009.
“I decided to create my brand after watching Le Mépris from Jean-Luc Godard, being inspired by the beauty and modernity of his vision,” Simon Porte Jacquemus wrote on Instagram. Among many locales, the 1963 movie was filmed at Malaparte’s home, up on the 104-feet-high rocky spur of Punta Masullo. “Today I feel honored to be able to present our next show in Casa Malaparte.”
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On the historical landmark’s breathtaking cliff, models climbed exactly 99 steps to meet the single, curvaceous row of only 40 invitees and the sounds of a live orchestra. The first look saw a model gripping the top of a towel-like robe at her chest, as if she had just gone for a dip and tossed the luxe garment over herself. Grey formalwear, including a signature fold-over collared top made fun with a teal head scarf, trailed behind, while the same bright blue tone covered the leather bags and belts that accessorized the following kaleidoscopic ensembles.
Semi-transparent dresses donned massive slits, which exposed their wearers’ sides from the shoulder to the knee. A deep-blue sweater, with a neckline reaching across both trap muscles, formed the shrine for an asymmetrical button-up shirt, and a thin, sailor-like tank top paired with oversized, zebra-printed bermuda shorts. On the nautical theme, classic navy stripes — all over shirts and hidden in garments’ details — were right at home in the seaside destination.
Sculpture, a long-time pillar of Jacquemus’ design codes (recall the label’s Spring 2024 line, “Les Sculptures,” which paid tribute to the late Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti’s three-dimensional works), was again vital. Stiff gowns were shaped like cones; wool coats boasted harsh, triangular lapels, and tops flowered around models’ waists like rigid artworks. A suede green top flaunted ballooning sleeves, much like those on Gigi Hadid last season, and Jacquemus’ formals let chiseled accessories — vivid leather belts, lunchbox-shaped handbags (the Pochette Rond Carré), circular totes and zebra loafers — move centerstage.
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BLACKPINK’s Jennie closed the show in look 47: a fanning black dress accompanied by a teal clutch. On her way down the steps after the final carousel, the K-pop starlet shared an embrace with Simon, who was wearing one of his signature striped shirts, and ushered him up the stairs for applause.
From a bird’s eye view, the line offered a medley of Simon’s fan-favorite design signatures — Jacquemus-isms, some would call them. But overall, the spectacle was about more than just the clothing itself; it was an intimate celebration of a brand that, in its first decade and a half of its existence, has seized the eyes, formed the mood boards and opened the wallets of millions thanks to its expert world-building, sharp marketing strategies and sheer design expertise.
See Jacquemus’ Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery above.
