COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS FW25: "To Hell With War"
Inside an industrial Parisian showroom, designer Rei Kawakubo presented a collection that altered classic army garbs with new textiles, patterns and helmets.
At Paris Fashion Week, Rei Kawakubo had a strong message on COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS Fall/Winter 2025 runway: “To hell with war.” Commanding the second floor of an industrial edifice in the 9th arrondissement, the avant-garde Japanese fashion designer unveiled a militant collection that subverted classic solider’s uniforms through the experimental lens of CdG.
In mode, Kawakubo’s collection notes were especially brief: “Breaking down army symbols such as uniform shapes, color, camouflage patterns, helmets.” COMME des GARÇONS’ brigade sported field jackets, sharp-shouldered officer’s coats, big-pocketed vests and utilitarian trousers in classic military hues of green, grey and brown.
However, despite the sense of uniformity, each ensemble had a unique identity. In one look, brass buttons shined on an army green coat, layered over a rather casual, plant-covered button-down shirt in the same tone; and in another, color-blocked paneling turned a serious double-breasted jacket into a whimsical, kaleidoscopic statement piece.
Instead, the constant throughout the collection was headwear. Some military hats were covered in decadent flowers; others were wrapped in a silky coating, and more were encased with textiles that stretched across the skull.
When the models rounded the runway in unison at the end of the show, Kawakubo’s orderly style manifesto appeared empowered by a sense of resilience—and you couldn’t help but draw connections to the world’s tumultuous headlines.
See COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
