Schiaparelli FW23 Lets House Codes Win

Marking Daniel Roseberry’s first ready-to-wear collection for the French label.

Fashion
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The dust has settled since Daniel Roseberry sent a bevy of much-talked-about animal heads down Schiaparelli’s Spring 2023 Haute Couture runway last month, and the ornate designer has returned with the next installment in the French fashion house’s cannon. For Fall/Winter 2023, Roseberry debuted his first Schiaparelli ready-to-wear collection on a regal runway inside Place Vendôme.

Referencing the house’s roots, specifically those of Italian aristocrat Elsa Schiaparelli’s wardrobe, the collection included wrapped headpieces, larger-than-life jewelry and quintessential metals shaped like human faces, flowers and shells. Designed in the label’s Paris studio, the collection was made in Italian factories, where the brand will be able to produce larger quantities of its designs for the ready-to-wear market.

Across the collection, gold buttons depicted keyholes and human body parts — a Schiaparelli signature — and similar designs were cut into the textiles themselves. One coat was lined with a measuring tape embroidery, and another donned Roseberry’s own illustrations. Meanwhile, the brand debuted its first-ever puffer — one that was classy and elegant but still playful.

On bags and accessories, Roseberry made sure to inject Schiaparelli’s whimsical touches. In almost every ensemble, the designer planted the House’s coined motifs among archetypal gold accents. And with a refined, muted color story, Roseberry’s first Schiaparelli ready-to-wear collection was still radiant.

Peruse Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection in the gallery above.

In more fashion news, Burberry captures its heritage and legacy in a new anthological book.

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