125 Years Later, J. Press FW26 Continues to Evolve Its Vision of Ivy
Introducing the brand’s first women’s collection in half-a-century, alongside new collaborations and a Made-in-Japan capsule.
Summary
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J. Press’s FW26 collection honors its upcoming 125th anniversary by blending British heritage fabrics with modern collaborations.
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The brand introduced its first women’s collection in 50 years, adapting classic Ivy menswear staples into fresh silhouettes.
On September 9, J. Press showcased its FW26 runway presentation at Capitale on Bowery—a former bank built in 1891 whose imposing stone facade faces the corner of Bowery and Broome St. The historic location, characterized by its rich interiors, provided an even grander effect than the venue for Jack Carlson’s sophomore collection at the New-York Historical Society last February. While last season focused on the J. Press re-edition of Take Ivy, this season looks ahead to the approaching 125th anniversary of J. Press, founded by Jacobi Press at Yale in 1902. At this milestone, the OG prep apparel purveyor has dug deep into its roots, highlighting the British provenance of Jacobi Press’s early designs while also looking ahead at the evolving face of Ivy.
For the first time in 50 years, the brand designed a dedicated women’s collection, both introducing new silhouettes and emphasizing the way the brand has already been embraced by women. Standing out among the women’s looks was a midi dress with blue and gold stripes running horizontally on the bodice and vertically on the skirt. In a true Ivy League touch, a double-breasted blazer with golden buttons was worn over the shoulders. Other looks translated the brand’s men’s staples for women, echoing the prep aesthetic of NYC writer Fran Lebowitz: tweed blazers were styled with slacks, and shirts were worn with neckties and Fair Isle vests.
In an official statement, Carlson shared, “It’s a great time for J. Press to relaunch women’s. I think there’s something in the air: ‘Ivy style’ is taking over the runway—though J. Press, of course, is the real thing. J. Press is synonymous with Ivy style. It’s a timeless, classic way of dressing, and it’s informed everything that’s happened in American fashion since. It hearkens back to a kinder, gentler, more erudite, more genteel time.”
Much of what makes Ivy what it is has roots in the British Isles, from the Savile Row tailoring traditions of London to the far islands where native sheep still provide some of the world’s best wool. “He didn’t grow up with any of this British stuff. But he had a keen eye, impeccable taste, and uncompromising standards,” Carlson shared regarding Jacobi Press’s early approach. “He created an idealized version of the world he imagined at Cambridge and Oxford, and on great British country estates. He created what we now know as American ‘Ivy style’ accordingly.”
On the runway, this manifested not only in the brand’s signature Shetland “Shaggy Dog” sweaters made in Scotland, but also in Irish Aran fisherman sweaters, and English neckwear and outerwear. Further, fabrics included Scottish cashmeres and Harris Tweeds, as well as custom Cheviots and English flannels made by British textile mills Fox Brothers and Marling & Evans.
While many silhouettes lean into traditional interpretations, like the range of earth-toned tweed coats, others remix these heritage fabrics into contemporary creations. Patchwork fabrics, including woolen checks, were made into statement overcoats, duffle bags, and totes. The brand also noted that the collection features new collaborations with Barbour, Gloverall, and Lavenham, as well as a special Made-in-Japan capsule.
See the gallery above for a full look at the J. Press FW26 collection, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest NYFW news.
