Courrèges Creates a Retro-Futuristic Fantasy Over-Consumed by Technology for FW23
Nicolas Di Felice’s models were too busy texting on their phones while serving nods to Twiggy, Mary Quant, Judy Jetson and all things ’60s.
André and Coqueline Courrèges’ eponymous label, Courrèges, was founded in 1961 — an era that was obsessed with the future. Today, the French House is under the Artistic Direction of Nicolas Di Felice, and for his Fall/Winter 2023 runway show it was all about being trapped in the grasp of the device that consumes our lives, the smartphone.
The collection was emblematic of the ’60s: a space-age aura glowed not just from the phone screens, but within the stark white room which acted as the home for models sporting equally kitsch and retro ensembles. While staring into their screens rather than paying attention to the job at hand (although, they managed to pull it off), the models showcased Courrèges’ assemblage of references from the past, perfected for the future.
Outerwear — both jackets and coats, some in tweed, others in a transparent mesh-like material — consumed the body. She was too concerned with whoever she was texting to put the jacket on properly, allowing her hands the necessary mobility to reach her keyboard.
Playfulness aside, the collection grew into something evocative of Courrèges’ era: more leather jackets, again with the arms flailing free, came with either holes cut out of the chest or a circular neckline that gave way for large orbicular jewelry. This continued across little black dresses, cut with razor-sharp shoulders and straight neck hems, as if Judy Jetson was on her way to the office.
The jewelry became the central focus on a cream mini dress à la Twiggy wearing Mary Quant — its high neck, structural pillars and short apron completing the quintessential look. Likewise, white gogo boots continued the ’60s theme, while moving on throughout the show we found an homage to pinstripes, recontextualizing formal codes with boundary-pushing cuts and cut-outs.
To round out Di Felice’s latest creation, the designer looked towards the future, just as André Courrèges would have wanted. Closing ensembles we crafted from sheer, shimmering fabrics, delicately wrapping the body in nighttime Parisian glamour with opera gloves in tow.
Take a look at the Courrèges FW23 collection in the gallery above, and find more Paris Fashion Week FW23 content across Hypebeast.
Elsewhere, here is Hypebeast’s take on the future of Balenciaga.
