Courrèges SS25 Is a Refined Vision of Monastic Minimalism
Going ‘seriously’ sexy with a monochromatic palette and an architectural approach to garment construction.
Flooded with natural light from above, the Courrèges SS25 presentation took place on a white circular runway enclosing a mysterious black portal at the center-stage. A knee-length black leather cloak with a robust Azorean hood and a sculpted back set the tone for the collection, which came across as both alien and ancient in its structural simplicity. The dramatic opening look marks the opening chapter of a range that progressively sheds it layers to reveal a timeless minimalism.
Directly after the first number, a similar cloak-style coat reduced its sleeves to two wide slits near the waist, leaving just enough room for the model to tuck her hands into the front pockets. The look was dark and austere, recalling priestly garbs with banded collars and modest hemlines. Even in their clerical sensibilities, the looks still recall Courrèges’ Space Age providence through the employment of abstraction and streamlined simplification.
As the show progressed, black and white mock-neck shift dresses made more direct reference to André Courrèges’ 1960s work in a more stripped-down form. Looks with waist exposing cut-outs and open backs were balanced with extra long leather leggings and bando bras that served as the first-layers.
A series of wrap dresses and skirts made efficient use of materials, fastened only by tiny bands of fabric and beautifully shaped with sculptural wiring. These wrap-style garments, alongside interwoven bandage-style constructions, drive home the monastic feel – especially in their largely monochromatic expression. The dominant pressence of leather was balanced out with solid tailored fabrics and sheer gauzes that provided delicate contrast. The line’s minimalism reached its peak with narrow rectangular bras that just barely covered the front of the models’ chests.
Where long angular lines may feel brutal or harsh in the hands other brands, Courrèges manages to make them feel elegant and sexy – a rare skill that the late founder Andre Courrèges had perfected and that creative director Nicolas Di Felice seems to have successfully mastered.
See all the looks from Courrèges SS25 in the gallery above and stay tuned for more Hypebeast coverage of Paris Fashion Week.
