Rick Owens' FW23 "LUXOR" Show Went Above and Beyond the Designer's Own Archetypes
Sometimes, more really is more.
The Lord of Darkness — Rick Owens — is back at Paris Fashion Week with his Fall/Winter 2023 womenswear collection, “LUXOR.” Following his FW23 menswear collection in name and aesthetical approach, Owens carries over various looks but adapts them for his women, in turn creating what might be the coolest of couples’ wardrobes this season.
Owens’ shows are something completely unique. He opens with a subdued look, and grows the mania throughout, building suspense for what will come along the elevated metal runway next. This season, he commenced with a lightly padded black shawl that traps the arms to the side of one’s body and flairs at the sides and rear like a cape, naturally complementing the ominous design with a pair of thigh-high Kiss grill boots.
At his men’s show, the designer created various orbs and sculptures that manipulated the body. Likewise, the second look is an undulating, bulbous creation crafted from leather, while in stark contrast we find another cape, this time in pleated and folded leather — sheening in a fashion that could be another example of his use of soft and waxy pirarucu fish skins.
Shearling jackets and coats in tones of brown and purple welcomed a softer side to Owens’ world, while denim ripped within an inch of its life brought together undertones of Americana that the designer often flirts with. Later, sharp shoulders that pointed to the heavens conflicted with slim-line dresses, and a collection of sculptural, pillowy jackets made their debut in full force.
Up until half-way-through, the collection served all the archetypes of an Owens collection. However, look 32 switched things up: 18-ounce Japanese Selvidge denim taken from the men’s collection was repurposed for a sort of kimono over shirt, again sporting ample amounts of disheveling, and towards the end, we found satin that was used to create ethereal coats that took even Owens’ own signatures to new heights, literally, with shoulders coming around the neck like armor.
Rick Owens has, once again, proved he is the final word in the avant-garde. Take a look at FW23 “LUXOR” above, and find more Paris Fashion Week FW23 content across Hypebeast.
In case you missed it, take a look at Givenchy’s study of modern elegance.
