Marni SS23 Made the Sun Rise From Under the Manhattan Bridge

The first Marni runway show outside Milan.

Fashion
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With this year’s New York Fashion Week back in full force for the Spring/Summer 2023 season, European brands like Marni are taking full advantage of the returning buzz in the city to showcase its collection. This season was the first time Marni showed its collection outside of Milan, making its New York City debut in an atmospheric tunnel under the iconic Manhattan Bridge. While the mysterious bridge setting may not be the first choice for many to host a high-fashion show, the historical arches made for a resounding background that set the tone for the upcoming season.

Sitting front row of the show included big names like Doja Cat, Kendall Jenner, sandwiched between Anna Wintour herself and Devin Booker, along with Madonna. With the help of the String Orchestra of Brooklyn, Dev Hynes performed a dramatic piece to accompany the models as they walked down the runway to showcase the new collection. Audiences were treated to a special performance as creative director, Francesco Risso immersed himself as a cello player in the orchestra, breaking down “the fourth wall” between the untouchable show and the audience.

While the sun had set, the collection put on quite the display of fiery-hued pieces, inspired by the sun’s continuous glow. The collection was saturated in stark contrasts between the cool and warm colors, but was highlighted with saturated yellows, oranges and reds, arriving in form-fitting vinyl dresses, mini skirts, oversized trench coats, and lustrous tuxedo jackets. The collection encompassed the bursting tropical rays of sunshine, perfectly standing out against the gritty, cobblestone venue. Models walked down the runway in purposely tattered and shrunken knitted tops in vibrant colors, paired with larger-than-life, movement-focused trousers. Oversized patchwork on floor-length coats and ombré polka-dot tops complemented mirror-tiled sarongs and bra tops, that reminded onlookers of the ’90s street mosaic art trend. Multi-textured materials created added details to the collection.

With this collection, Risso continues to focus on the bold use of colors, however, he has highlighted softer and more simpler graphics. Taking inspiration from the ’60s and ’70s silhouettes and print references, the SS23 collection brought an inherently mismatched and DIY aesthetic that brought forward the wabi-sabi artistic elegance that marks Risso’s reign as Marni’s creative director in this moment.

Take a look above at Marni SS23 at NYFW.

In other NYFW news, WHO DECIDES WAR SS23 offers up a taste of the Caribbean.

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