Olivier Rousteing's Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Show Was an Ode to JPG-Isms
Referencing archival shows such as Spring 1994’s “Les Tatouages” to transforming the “Le Male” fragrance into looks, heels and trompe-l’œil detailing.
For its last three collections, Jean Paul Gaultier has handed over the reins to its Couture runway show to designers who have reinterpreted the brand under their own homage-paying vision. sacai’s Chitose Abe came first, while fashion’s busiest man — Glenn Martens of Diesel and Y/Project — took JPG to new heights, championing trompe-l’œil special effects and a classic brand identity. Yesterday came Olivier Rousteing‘s turn, presenting a co-ed Fall 2022 Couture runway show that was littered with historical references.
Described by Rousteing as “an open letter to Jean Paul, an open letter of love,” the collection opened with menswear that was heavily inspired by the past. Both brand inspirations and personal memories infiltrated his designs, with iconographies such as the iconic “Le Male” fragrance campaigns and bottles to Madonna’s 1992 amfAR gala free the nipple ensemble appearing in reworked forms for today’s clientele. Rousteing paid respect to the legendary designer, one he cherishes and holds dearly for inspiring him — and many other designers — to create their wildest visions.
Rousteing opened the show with a nod to Spring 1994’s “Les Tatouages” collection, which was then described by Vogue as “A startling vision of cross-cultural harmony.” Like ‘94, Fall 2022 was a heavy mix of prints and clashing graphics, ones that through their colors told a story of cultures coming together through the power of clothing. ’90s sunglasses were styled alongside nose-to-ear chains, and plenty of the brand’s signature trompe-l’œil detailing was included to create looks that appeared layered, but were indeed just tact prints.
Corsetry worked its way onto military boots stacked atop towering metal platforms, looking like layers of tin cans packed on top of one another. It added volume to the looks, making models grand in their equally powerful clothes. The inclusivity of “Les Tatouages” continued to inspire Rousteing as a “Le Male”-inspired two-piece was centered around the word “inclusivity,” displayed across the chest of a tight-fitting piece. Illusionary woven pinstripes were indeed white crepe that was embedded into the fabric in a 600-hour-long process, while archival JPG tropes such as the repurposing of denim started to flicker into the Fall 2022 offering.
Jeans were reworked with more trompe-l’œil-printed fabrics, accentuating the flares and bagginess of the denim while also recontextualizing traditions like a button fly. This, combined with a soft grandad collar blazer with darted, exaggerated shoulders proved promising for the soon-coming womenswear, which only doubled down on the historical factors of JPG.
Rousteing’s inaugural womenswear look knocked it out of the park, as a model embarked in an ode to “Le Male” dressed like the bottle in a molded metal skirt — complete with an incorporated cummerbund — and a jelly-like top. That aforementioned Madonna reference appeared with trompe-l’œil breast detailing both on the runway and on frower Kim Kardashian, while phallic imagery subverted conventional codes around gendered clothing.
For Rousteing, having the chance to flex his Couture skills under the vision of Jean Paul Gaultier was nothing short of a hit. Take a look at the collection in the gallery above.
In case you missed it, don’t forget to check out Balenciaga’s 51st Couture show.
