Glenn Martens' Diesel FW22 Runway Makes a Case for Editorial Denim
Denim, but not as you know it.
So far this year, Glenn Martens has delivered Y/Project’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection, an in-house collaborative collection with Jean Paul Gaultier, and now, the busiest designer of the season has served up his Y2K-infused FW22 runway show for Diesel.
Taking to Milan Fashion Week last night, Martens debuted 69 looks in an industrial space decorated with gigantic blown-up “models” wearing denim and white tank tops from Diesel’s entry-level offering, paired with new footwear styles that, combined, gave lots of Uncanny Valley energy. Showgoers sat atop a lush red carpet, which served as the perfect contrast for many of the denim-laden looks across both men’s and womenswear.
While every single look was typical of Martens, infused with early 2000s sex and pop stardom glamor, there were a few particular standouts that are set to be the cause of a viral moment. Notably, a leather belt has been reworked and blown up to become a skirt, complete with distressed denim fringes — and it was very Miu Miu, à la that micro skirt that the fashion world just can’t get enough of.
Aside from this trending piece, Diesel served overt outerwear that made a case for excess volume. A belted wrap-around trench in lightly bleached denim was one key example, while a padded overcoat made from fringed denim was almost fur-like in its aesthetic, mocked up in both light and dark washes.
Early 2000s nods came in the form of low-rise denim and a trompe-l’œil bodysuit that mimicked jeggings (the combinations of jeans and leggings), while colorful short skirts paired with graphic halter neck tops, leather cummerbund-like belts with diamonté-covered Diesel logos, and heavily-distressed jeans also appeared.
For Martens, the Diesel FW22 collection was a masterclass in distressing. It didn’t just grace jeans in traditional ways; there were no blown-out knees for example. Instead, all the distressing was added to the waist and crotch areas for something fresh but tinged by noughties trends, or it appeared on the lapels of coats.
Following on from denim were technical looks punctuated by a cream jacket and matching sports skirt fitted with adjustable cords and zippers, a blue painted black denim shirt and jean two-piece, and sweatpants that incorporated ribbed knees just like those found on motorbike overalls. Rounding out the presentation were waxed denim pieces that looked like leather, once again showing Martens’ application of illusionary techniques that frequented his recent Y/Project and JPG collections.
Take a look at the runway show in the gallery above, and catch the show’s live stream above as well.
Elsewhere, here are five standouts shows that you might have missed at London Fashion Week.
