For COMME des GARÇONS die-hards — and there are many of them — each season’s HOMME PLUS show is an exciting event that realizes Rei Kawakubo‘s incomparable vision, often more accessibly than the never conventional mainline womenswear. For those uncertain how to process Spring/Summer 2021’s dynamic metal sheen and pleated skirts, there’s always something to consider underfoot — this offering is anchored by yet another Nike collaboration.
Dubbed “METAL OUTLAW,” the new collection — shown to a small audience at CdG headquarters in Tokyo — updates signature COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS elements with crisp, crinkly textiles rendered in shiny silver. Snug blazers, slacks and skirts all appear in this reflective tone, abetted by timeless white shirts and piecemeal tailoring that features contrast stitching and asymmetric panels. CdG’s preferred double rider’s jackets return in lightweight fabrications that complement the visual weight of pastel blue jackets and yellow shorts.
“It is my wish that the strength of metal, the strength that wouldn’t yield to any pressure or force, and the strength that will give birth to hope that we need to overcome the various hardships we now face, will all overlap in this collection,” Kawakubo explained in suitably cryptic form. “The metallic materials I often use in my interior designs are very apt in expressing my ideas. I would like to transplant that strength of metal into the clothes this time. Of course, the fabrics we use in this collection are not actually made of any metal, but have its sense of strength, of heavy weight, and the look of its sheen and gloss.”
Recent COMME des GARÇONS collaborations have foretold footwear styles set to receive greater attention from Nike via general releases; consider the bespoke Dunk Low , teased way back in September 2019. Though the Air Carnivore spotted on the SS21 runway is perhaps a less consumer-friendly style than the Dunk, CdG’s twist is equally striking in its stark design. Bold 3M and comparably understated black iterations are on hand, retaining the Carnivore’s tall strappy details and embroidered with COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS branding on the heel.
Expect SS21 to hit stockists early next year, but don’t be surprised if information about the collaborative Air Carnivore sneakers arrives sooner rather than later.