COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS SS27 Debuts Dual-Act Show "If The War Were To End.."
Rei Kawakubo delivers a joyful riot of candy-colored camouflage, subverted stripes, and the spectacular return of cult footwear classic.
Summary
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection through a synchronized two-part presentation in Paris
Act one took over the historic Élysée Montmartre runway, which seamlessly transitioned into a second physical installation in the courtyard of Dover Street Market Paris
Titled “If The War Were To End..”, the vibrant collection replaces combat energy with pure release, utilizing soft pastel camouflage, patchwork tartans, and the iconic return of the brand's ultra-pointy boots
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS has officially introduced its Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection, staging a captivating two-act conceptual event during Paris Fashion Week. Guided by the singular, open-ended prompt, “If The War Were To End..”, founder and creative director Rei Kawakubo rejected armor and rigid structures in favor of absolute aesthetic liberation, delivering an optimistic manifesto expressed through vivid textile interplay and radical footwear choices.
The presentation kicked off its first act at the Élysée Montmartre, bathed in a brilliant, stained-glass-like glow conceptualized by lighting designer Thierry Dreyfus and set to a buoyant score mixed by Ugo Nardini (ADC303). The runway opened with an energetic salute to awning-stripe tailoring—clashing scales of candy pink, jade, navy, and sky blue across oversized coats and fluid, walking-pajama trousers.
As the presentation progressed, Kawakubo subverted traditional combat gear by surgically stripping military camouflage of its menace, reimagining the print in a dreamy palette of lilac, seafoam, lemon, and blush. These utilitarian silhouettes quickly gave way to double-breasted blazers in electric chartreuse and lavender, asymmetric ruffled skirts, mesh layering, and bold, block-letter typography spelling out the house’s name.
The experiential second act shifted to the courtyard of Dover Street Market Paris, revealing a dedicated spatial installation featuring a graphic collaboration with artist Nejc Prah.
Beyond the clothing, the undeniable centerpiece of the collection was the high-profile return of the house’s legendary pointy Mexican dancing boots. Originally debuting over a decade ago for the Spring/Summer 2015 season, the Guarachero-inspired rancher boots were re-engineered in partnership with heritage French shoemaker Mexicana, boasting slightly modified, curved-up pointed toes. This statement-making footwear anchor was joined on the runway by collaborative iterations with George Cox and Kids Love Gaite, rounding out a collection that stands as a definitive, unapologetic celebration of life and creative defiance.
