Helmut Lang is honing in on its history as of late. In October, for example, the brand released a pair of hand-painted cowboy boots which were inspired by the original edition from 1994. Last month, the label launched its Certified Pre-Owned Program which will allow fans to shop rare, vintage and authenticated archival pieces. And at New York Fashion Week last night, Helmut Lang staged its first runway show since the spring 2018 season, presenting a line-up of deftly-familiar brand staples with a fresh take for Fall/Winter 2019.
The latest assortment, spearheaded by Mark Thomas (creative director of men’s and womenswear) and Thomas Cawson (creative director of Helmut Lang Jeans), conjures up the label’s signature minimalist, utilitarian aesthetic. Black, gray and white tonal combinations are prominent throughout, whether in a tailored suit combination or a more casual-leaning parka, sweater and trousers mix. Denim jackets with matching pants also mark a key look, with a bubble-gum pink option standing out as one of the main pops of color alongside a punchy red.
As for materials, a sheer fabrication is found on button-down shirts while transparent raincoat-style slickers and bottoms add functionality. Meanwhile, leather and tweed pants bring a sense of elevation to the range. For footwear, one silhouette of a simple sleek boot is offered in three colorways — metallic silver, black and white — finishing off the collection.
Helmut Lang has also branched into sustainable fashion in recent times. In December, it partnered with Parley for the Oceans on a limited series of unisex jackets made out of repurposed ocean plastic textiles.
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