Shinya Kozuka Fall/Winter 2018 Is Avant-Garde Workwear
Deconstructing the classics.
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Emerging Japanese designer Shinya Kozuka graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2013 with a Bachelor’s degree in Menswear. Fall/Winter 2015, his first collection to garner mainstream attention, saw the designer introduce some of his soon-to-be signature touches: subverted workwear looks, splattered with paint or organic patterns and cut oversized. Kozuka’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection, “Untitled,” demonstrates the refinement of the designer’s style over the years, introducing a mature, boundary-pushing array of looks.
Kozuka takes an exaggerated approach to exacting workwear items, executing cropped work jackets and hefty cotton trousers in overblown silhouettes and curved legs. The silhouettes contrast with relaxed shirts and wool sweaters, offered in more conventional lengths. Other traditional workwear items include aprons, crafted in wool, and an oversized coat that recalls old-school raincoats. The designer’s penchant for oversized outerwear remains, as does his textile experimentation: a coat’s hood and shoulders are covered in tufted wool, while a jumpsuit features an all-over paint detailing, recalling a marble floor.
Check out Shinya Kozuka’s website for more info on the brand and its stockists. On the other end of the workwear spectrum, nonnative pays tribute to the world’s handymen for Spring/Summer 2018.