Jonathan Anderson Finds a New Algorithm for Masculinity With LOEWE FW24

Jonathan Anderson brings American artist Richard Hawkins’ work to life for LOEWE Fall/Winter 2024. Hawkins, who is a professor of painting and drawing at the University of California, is known for combining pop-culture references with arcane references and quotes. He often takes inspiration from current celebrities, sex tourism as well as Greek and Roman statuary. Anderson’s pieces for the collection embody just that bringing a sense of kitschiness to a collection that celebrates kink in a fun and flirty way. In over three decades, Hawkins’ work centers on his fascination for the male body, with literary and philosophical mythologies that underpin its representation. Provocation is collided with aesthetic and are turned into a major inspiration for this collection.

Continuing vibrant color schemes from previous seasons, the FW24 collection continues to show off an exuberance use of hues to create the pop art aesthetic that has infiltrated into pop and mass culture over the years. Matching the paintings from Hawkins, the pieces were filled with textures and were bold and spirited throughout the collection. As showgoers entered the space, digital screens in the form of windows show cased brand ambassadors such as Jamie Dornan, in flirtatious prompts that see the actor appear to check himself out on the big screens. Throughout the show, models walked to a narrative often defined by social media feeds, paparazzi shots and celebrity culture. Anderson reflects on how levelled up everything is today.

When it comes to the pieces, much of the collection was rooted in intricate detailing. From scaled leather coats that were still in the midst of being spray painted with the right hue just moments before the show, to beaded trousers and and bags as well as colorful polo shirts hanging inside the jackets to create another dimension of clothing, the collection deconstructed traditional silhouettes and use of bold colors. Anderson spoke to the press post-show about the meaning of the future of masculinity and how everything can become a “one-piece” look. The collection shows off Anderson’s understanding of modern masculinity and how there is not one definition anymore. The collection’s is a foray into a crystallized American iconography from the coats, suits to the biker and combat boots and skate sneakers. Pieces are attached to one another, from the shoes to the socks, socks to trousers, trousers to jacket or coat, belt to waist, collaging to a reality we all live in.

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Take a look a the collection above.