Interestingly, the line builds on the commonality of the square among creative industries, where the shape itself oftentimes forms the basis for art — be it a painter’s canvas, a vocalist’s music score or a designer’s fabric sample. This season, Miyake manipulated the foundational square with original forms and technologies to introduce a new aesthetic based on “ma,” or the “unified space” between clothes and their wearer.
In the collection, this new style manifested across a multitude of silhouettes. A number of canopy-shaped ensembles made from a soft, elastic material covered the body with scarce seams, while knits reached across models with square-inspired stitching. A “Rhythm Check” pattern offered a three-dimensional punch to a number of looks with unique, intentional shrinkage, and a “Counterpoint: Check” coat arrived reversible, with contrasting reflections on either side.
Additional knitwear left traditional design techniques in the past, opting to knit the front and back in different directions to create a twisted construction. Other designs mimicked an “unconventionally shaped painter’s canvas,” according to collection notes, with a double-knitting approach that fused two separate fabrics. Meanwhile, a “Square” bag series was crafted with draping at the fore.
Take a look at Issey Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection in the gallery above.
Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, Schiaparelli FW23 lets House codes win.