Issey Miyake FW23 Makes Fashion Out of Squares
The collection, titled “The Square and Beyond,” is quite angular.
At Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris on Friday, Issey Miyake presented its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, titled “The Square and Beyond.”
Interestingly, the line builds on the commonality of the square among creative industries, where the shape itself oftentimes forms the basis for art — be it a painter’s canvas, a vocalist’s music score or a designer’s fabric sample. This season, Miyake manipulated the foundational square with original forms and technologies to introduce a new aesthetic based on “ma,” or the “unified space” between clothes and their wearer.
In the collection, this new style manifested across a multitude of silhouettes. A number of canopy-shaped ensembles made from a soft, elastic material covered the body with scarce seams, while knits reached across models with square-inspired stitching. A “Rhythm Check” pattern offered a three-dimensional punch to a number of looks with unique, intentional shrinkage, and a “Counterpoint: Check” coat arrived reversible, with contrasting reflections on either side.
Additional knitwear left traditional design techniques in the past, opting to knit the front and back in different directions to create a twisted construction. Other designs mimicked an “unconventionally shaped painter’s canvas,” according to collection notes, with a double-knitting approach that fused two separate fabrics. Meanwhile, a “Square” bag series was crafted with draping at the fore.
Take a look at Issey Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection in the gallery above.
Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, Schiaparelli FW23 lets House codes win.
