The Best Pre-Fall 2024 Collections
The latest and greatest from Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Diesel and more.
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Although Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter serve as the main collections throughout the fashion season – producing the largest collections and runway shows/presentations – the pre-season collections have grown in prominence in recent years. Sometimes referred to as “Cruise” or “Resort” collections, the heightened focus on pre-season offerings gives brands another opportunity to either extend their vision or offer up a transitionary palette cleanser.
Since the big runway shows cover two seasons, there’s more ground to cover. From complete ready-to-wear ensembles to accessories and footwear, these are the brand’s main opportunities to impart completely new thematic approaches and style codes. Therefore, pre-season collections can be seen almost as extended or hefty capsules. Take MM6 Maison Margiela as an example. The brand’s Pre-Fall 2023 collection, which was revealed in November of last year focused on expanding the landscape of unisex styling through quietly enticing looks across tailored, street and sporty style notes – also predominately dipped in dark hues.
When its Fall 2023 collection arrived the following February, tailoring emerged front and center through hybridized and deconstructed techniques that carved a fuller picture of blended design directives. From cuts to color, it was a refreshing maneuver from the brand. But it was one prefaced by the cleansing in Pre-Fall 2023.
In keeping the movement of intermediary wardrobes strong, the Pre-Fall 2024 collections have arrived, which inch toward the year’s close while preparing for the next cool season. Therefore, Hypebeast has rounded up some highlights of the Pre-Fall 2024 season to keep an eye on what to look out for next year.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
At the end of last month, Pharrell Williams took Louis Vuitton to Hong Kong for its menswear Pre-Fall 2024 collection – situating the show on the city’s beautiful Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront overlooking the skyline.
“The archetypes that we chose were like a sailor one and another archetype was one on holiday. There’s a lot of floral inspiration, a deep dive into exotic colorways, interesting pairings of colors,” Williams told Hypebeast.
As evident in this show and the last, Williams is no stranger to using vibrant colors to accent traditional patterns like the Damier, as seen on cloud-like sandals and Keepall bags. Almost an ode to the colorful cityscape and sunny beaches of Hong Kong, the collection blended presented a wardrobe of tailoring-oriented looks alongside contemporary everyday looks.
Helmut Lang
Helmut Lang/Vogue Runway
Helmut Lang/Vogue Runway
Helmut Lang/Vogue Runway
Helmut Lang/Vogue Runway
Helmut Lang/Vogue Runway
Helmut Lang/Vogue Runway
Peter Do is continuing his revival of NYC-based Helmut Lang with his second collection as its creative director. With the Pre-Fall 2024 collection, Do centers on clothes fit for everyday city life – whether it be running to the office or dinner with friends.
This time around, Do offers his key focus on tailoring, which can be seen with cropped blazers, slightly relaxed cream-colored suiting and chic overcoats. However, the refined heartbeat of the collection is furthered with everyday knitwear complimented by separate shoulder attachments, zip-ups that fuse technical and classic styles, elevated cargo pants and classic wool pants.
Do’s latest at Helmut Lang serves as a pre-season highlight because of its unwavering understanding of chicly classic, yet contemporary styles.
Off-White™
Off-White™
Off-White™
Off-White™
Off-White™
Off-White™
The success of Ib Kamara at Off-White™ has been due to the multi-hyphenate creative’s willingness to impart his own vision while honoring Virgil Abloh’s legacy without taking the easy route – i.e. being repetitive. For the brand’s Pre-Fall 2024 collection, Kamara offered a discussion between past and future.
With an eye for contemporary streetwear, the co-ed collection bridges a selection of styles – something that Abloh often did at the label. Kamara’s eye imparted military-style suiting updated with details like fur-trimmed collars and stylish headgear, pinstriped uniforms, satin-varsity jackets, floral dresses and vividly-hued coordinating sets.
Regardless of the piece, the collection as a whole shows that Kamara is keen on experimentation while remaining in the Off-White™ universe Abloh built.
Givenchy
Givenchy/Vogue Runway
Givenchy/Vogue Runway
Givenchy/Vogue Runway
Givenchy/Vogue Runway
Givenchy/Vogue Runway
With the announcement of Matthew M Williams’ forthcoming departure from Givenchy on January 1, 2024, the Pre-Fall 2024 collection marks the designer’s last collection for the luxury French house.
“It’s kind of the same story as always; in menswear making clothes for myself, clothes that I feel have a need to exist,” Williams told Vogue Runway. “Exploring the themes of silhouette and materials that I’ve been following since I arrived at Givenchy: garment dye, treating luxury and non-luxury material with sartorial technique.”
The collection offers up quintessentially classic style codes, while also looking at how silhouettes can be updated. Somewhat a palette cleanser, the wardrobe saw suiting with edgy cuts/proportions, windbreakers, relaxed bottoms and more – imparting sentiments of chicness and edge.
Diesel
Diesel/Vogue Runway
Diesel/Vogue Runway
Diesel/Vogue Runway
Diesel/Vogue Runway
Diesel/Vogue Runway
Diesel/Vogue Runway
Since we all know that Diesel loves denim, the challenge for the brand is how to keep its signature aesthetic inventive. But as Glenn Martens is the reigning champ of denim, the task isn’t too hard for the Belgian designer.
For this pre-season collection, Martens made a sexy fusion of styles. Comprising the wardrobe is a testament to layering, bodycon silhouettes, oversized silhouettes and cropped detailing. Although sexy and edgy styles dominate the collection, which is aided by the eye-catching campaign, streetwear style also meets Saville Row through contemporary suiting enhanced by unorthodox fabrications.
The Row
The Row/Vogue Runway
The Row/Vogue Runway
The Row/Vogue Runway
The Row/Vogue Runway
The Row/Vogue Runway
One of the hallmarks of Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen’s, The Row, is its effortless attitude that retains a sheer understanding of timeless luxury. Pre-Fall 2024 was no different – offering a calmer side of its irrefutably elevated demeanor.
From simple suiting and flowing tunics to center-pocket rain ponchos, several of the collection’s pieces were crafted with oversized silhouettes without being sloppy. So even though the wardrobe harbored a relaxed aesthetic due to its lineup of cuts and proportions, it still harbored a luxe character because of its intentionality.
Some of those highlights include sculptured draped tops, everyday suits and supple, yet sweet knitwear.
