Kiko Kostadinov FW23 Dismantles Traditional Tailoring With Vibrancy
Taking inspiration from four forgotten figures of avant-garde women’s fashion – Anne-Marie Beretta, Krizia, Irene Lentz and Sorelle Fontana.
The most recent Fall/Winter 2023 collection from Kiko Kostadinov was an impressive spectacle that paid homage to four forgotten fashion influences in womenswear design. The collection took notes from French designer Anne-Marie Beretta, the godmother of Italian fashion, Mariuccia Mandelli aka Krizia, American costume designer Irene Lentz and Roman sisters Sorelle Fontana.
While many may not be quick to recall the fashion influences of these four womenswear design titans, it allowed Kostadinov to start with almost a blank slate when designing for this season. The collection saw the label move away from its often technical-focused streetwear approach to feature its own rendition of the traditional tailored suit. Geometric silhouettes were paired with vibrant colors seeing the menswear collection emerge in vermilion and magenta, grass green, chartreuse, violet, cobalt, and teal.
Kostadinov deconstructed and reassembled suiting pieces by manipulating symmetries and utilizing digital print, intarsia knitwear, and hooded garments that add to the sculptural structures. Suits arrive in matching ensembles in two-tone contrasts in materials like corduroy and cotton. The looks offer a utilitarian aesthetic, keeping it uniform with engineered trench coats and blazers that feature sack-back capes, resembling that of Beretta Soy’s dress. Nods to womenswear were also incorporated through the codes of Laura and Deanna Fanning.
Take a look at the collection above.
In other Paris Fashion Week news, Bode FW23 was an ethereal ode to family.