Bode FW23 Is an Ethereal Ode to Family
Emily Adams Bode Aujla debuts her first womenswear collection in the co-ed show.
Bode made her official return to the Paris Fashion Week runway for the Fall/Winter 2023 season. This show marked Emily Adams Bode Aujla‘s seventh year at the helm of her antique-laden imprint.
The show was an ethereal experience from the beginning, hosted at the Théâtre du Châtelet. In the front row sat Dame Anna Wintour DBE alongside Usher and Lucas Bravo to celebrate Bode’s return to Paris Fashion Week. The show began with a short speech from Bode’s uncle, where he told a touching story of the Rice sisters, one of which was Bode’s mother Janet. Highlighting that the collection is centered around family, the story focused on Janet’s first meeting with the 90-year-old Ms. Long, where she was encapsulated by her eccentric, ever-changing floral arrangements and how every night for dinner, Ms. Long would descend from her bedroom wearing embellished dresses and gowns from the late 1890s-1940s. After dinner, she would meet with her “gentleman caller,” a story that emphasized a period of self-discovery and when an adult begins to find their identity.
The collection, titled “The Crane Estate,” featured historical reproductions of Janet’s stories. The collection is an ode to American traditions and holidays from the past three centuries and it evolves from generation to generation. Staying true to her love for vintage clothing and a period of American classics, Bode unveils a selection of 1920s-inspired beaded dresses and 1940s velvet gowns. Embroidery continues to be a technique widely used in the collection. Dresses, shirts, blazers, and jackets all featured intricately and vividly embroidered graphics, as well as various patterned patchwork that fiercely pays homage to the ideals of self-expression through American quilting history.
Referencing family heirlooms, passed on through the generations of the Rice family, rhinestones jewels bedazzled tuxedos on the lapels, and suits embellished with sequin champagne bottles depicted a time like the roaring ’20s. Notable overcoats in classically tailored camel hair and micro floral printed corduroy suits adorned the stage, while leather and suede fringe jackets took audiences back in time to a period of carefree everyday adventures.
Perhaps one that strikes the greatest is Bode’s foray into womenswear. Previously known as a menswear brand, Bode debuted her womenswear collection where tissue-cashmere sweaters, delicate lace lingerie, silk teddies, and knitted wool shorts adorn the runway. Bode puts her own spin on accessories, adding her selection of gold costume jewelry which included lamé embellished crowns and hats along with crochet berets, suede clutches and silk-printed scarves.
Take a look at the full collection above.
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