Ferragamo's Pre-Fall 2023 Collection Is an Ode to La-La Land
Western design codes reference Salvatore Ferragamo’s 1923 silent film, ’The Covered Wagon.’
Following his debut at the label’s helm in Milan in September, creative director Maximilian Davis has presented his first pre-fall collection for Ferragamo in the brand’s headquarters.
The line reflects Salvatore Ferragamo’s influence in Los Angeles, where the namesake founder opened a store in the spring of 1923, brokered lucrative connections with some of Hollywood’s brightest stars and built the foundation for his brand on a global scale. For Pre-Fall 2023, Davis was sartorially galvanized by the City of Angels’ opportunistic allure.
“There’s an image of LA and Hollywood where you kind of pan away from the city and you see the mountains, so you see the contrast of the mountains with the palm trees,” Davis told Vogue of the collection. “So there was this idea of mixing hot and cold.”
In the mix, Davis injects American Western design codes inspired by Salvatore Ferragamo’s 1923 silent film, The Covered Wagon. Denim coats, pants and shirtdresses articulate that cinematic mentality; and additional references reach far beyond the Hollywood sign, with a color palette nodding to a Mark Rothko painting and geometric motifs paying homage to Nancy Holt’s Sun Tunnels installations.
Elsewhere, the collection spotlights fine textiles. Among them, utilitarian pants and a gold bustier dress are made from eel skin, while jewel-like embellishments adorn polished leather patches and buckles. Form-hugging cashmere frocks meet shaggy-and-shaved shearlings, and checkered motifs land on scarf dresses, duchess coats and shirting. At large, the range is eclectic: it’s bold in its approach to tailoring and fabrication selections, yet tastefully held down by a quiet sensuality.
Peruse Ferragamo’s Pre-Fall 2023 collection in the gallery above.
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