Marine Serre has vocally supported environmental efforts with her young label for years — approximately 50% of the Spring/Summer 2019 collection, for instance, was crafted from upcycled materials, setting the tone for future offerings to employ similarly conscious craft. Spring/Summer 2020 furthers that approach with strong visual cues, yielding garments inspired by, and suited for, a not-so-imaginary apocalypse brought on by encroaching climate change.
Dubbed “Marée Noire” (“Black Tide” in French), the collection is rife with signature Serre designs, updated with moody hues appropriate for the disquieting theme — black jumpsuits, jackets and bags referenced both the oil that hastens environmental shifts and the shades worn by protestors, while splashes of red are an ode to drawn blood. Tiny, delicate bags and clutched pooches hint at bourgeoisie ladies escaping mutating landscapes, while tailored suiting is upended by tonal camouflage and towel-like textiles, speaking to the utilitarian needs of a post-apocalypse society.
Serre’s crescent moon logo and draped silver jewelry enlivened the downtrodden mood, bolstering louche silhouettes informed by billowing trousers and flowing skirts. Later, the practical jumpsuit and athleisure looks were interrupted by beatific crocheted dresses and light wash denim, a moment where the storm broke and spiritual needs drive a return to nature worship — floral patterns and plenty of white layers bring the message home.
Review the looks above and check out shots of Serre’s SS20 runway from attendees below.
Most recently, Serre opened up to HYPEBAE about her exclusive catsuit capsule for Joyce.