HELIOT EMIL SS20 Delivers Richard Serra-Inspired Technical Layers

Ignoring the warm weather in favor of imposing silhouettes.

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Emerging label HELIOT EMIL has made waves since its inception in 2017, blending technical textiles with progressive styling for a fashion-forward take on functionality. Spring/Summer 2020 continues mining the motifs put forth in past collections, delivering a bevy of slick layers abetted by shiny fastenings, experimental cuts and a monochrome palette.

“Torqued Ellipse” takes cues from Richard Serra’s steel sculpture series of the same name, similarly toying with the line that divides form and function. Like Serra, HELIOT EMIL adds and subtracts shapes from several items, yielding scalloped vests, boxy crop tops, flared shirting and slanted skirts. Though the items are anything but summer-friendly, exist in their own world, distinct from the Earth’s changing climate.

Throughout the range, trim blazers and billowing trousers are accented by “HE”-branded belts and carabiner-cinched bags, elevating business casual basics into clothes ideal for the not-so-distant future. Zippers, taped seams, 3D pockets and rollercoaster buckles add silver sheen to the understated jackets, shirts and tees, further emphasizing the juxtaposition between the familiar and the futuristic.

Check HELIOT EMIL’s website to get a closer look at the Spring/Summer 2020 collection.

Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga delivered perhaps the most dramatic genderless runway of the week.

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