Dover Street Market to Launch DSM Label at Paris Fashion Week

Here’s what to expect from the first collection, designed by Kei Ninomiya.

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Summary

  • Dover Street Market announced it will launch a private-label line during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, with Kei Ninomiya of Noir helming the initial and future collections.
  • Ninomiya’s DSM collection will feature everyday, easy-to-wear staples, contrasting his usual avant-garde style, and will debut at the Dover Street Market Paris showroom from June 28 to July 1.

Dover Street Market, the legendary Comme des Garçons-led retail concept by Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe, has announced that it plans to introduce a DSM private-label during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.

According to the original report from WWD, Kei Ninomiya, a close member of the Comme des Garçons family and head of his own Noir label, will helm the first and subsequent collections.

Joffe emphasized to WWD that Ninomiya’s inclusion is “definitely not a guest-designer situation,” as they plan to keep him “as long as possible,” in the creative lead role. “We plan then to add other creators under the DSM brand umbrella, each with a different idea and concept and name,” Joffe added.

While Ninomiya’s Noir is known for its otherworldly wearable artworks, his DSM collection is expected to swing in the opposite direction, with more everyday pieces and easy-to-wear staples. Ninomiya described his first concept for DSM as “unnamed team wear,” as he explained what he plans to bring to the collection.

The Japanese designer aims to craft “pieces that suggest a shared visual identity, something subtle and symbolic,” while toning down his typically avant-garde aesthetics for “everyday garments, jersey pieces, and familiar silhouettes that people live in.”

Dover Street Market will showcase the debut DSM collection by Ninomiya from June 28 to July 1 at the Dover Street Market Paris showroom at 35-37 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois alongside spring 2026 collections from the retailer’s luxury and streetwear assortment. Adrian Joffe shared with WWD that the next DSM collection will follow in 2026.

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