Tom Ford Is Back To The Business Of Dressing (For The Party)
Haider Ackermann’s debut collection quickly re-established the brand as an arbiter of evening wear and taste.
Tom Ford may no longer be at the helm of his eponymous brand, but a congratulatory finale embrace is as good of a stamp of approval as you can get. This was the scene at Haider Ackermann’s debut Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2025 collection in Paris earlier today.
Haider Ackermann was appointed as creative director in September of last year following Peter Hawking’s unceremonious firing. Hawking, who worked under Tom Ford all the way from Gucci to Ford’s retirement, received the boot after only a year at the top job. Meanwhile, Ackermann was an industry darling fresh off the heels of a stunning Jean Paul Gaultier couture collaboration and had been a free agent for far too long. He felt like the perfect fit.
The parallels between Ackermann and Tom Ford are clear. Both designers ooze silky sex appeal and can boast to a celebrity-filled roster of friends. If Tom Ford’s shows were known for the star-powered front rows, Ackermann could also brag he allegedly introduced it-couple Kyle Jenner and Timothée Chalamet.
Leading up to the show, Ackermann took to Instagram to tease the debut featuring a nude self portrait by photographer Ethan James Green. Though the collection was undoubtedly filled with more clothes than the promo, it was a sign that the era of iconic Tom Ford imagery was about to make a comeback.
On the runway, models strutted slowly, an intentional pause to the rapid ready to wear stomp. The collection was filled with every genre of classic evening wear. One shoulder dresses were slit to well above the hip and skinny suits were brightened by exciting color combinations. Cobalt peaked from under silver, neon green lit up powder pink, and purple melted into chocolate brown to name a few. For the after party, and there was an undone tux with a jacket in hand. And after that, for when the sun comes up, a satin blue robe paired with the morning’s newspaper.
Barring a mohair sweater and lilac fringed gown, Ackermann was also one of the few designers this season to not show fur, or any trendy fuzzy iteration. Instead, leather dominated the first half of the looks including a white crocodile top, array of biker jackets, and one handed motorcycle gloves.
It’s almost a shame that Ackermann’s debut came so soon after awards season wrapped, but we’re sure to see red carpet appearances from these slinky gowns and skinny suits soon. In the meantime, check out Tom Ford’s full FW25 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for all things Paris Fashion Week.
