The Nike x Riccardo Tisci Pivot From Sneakers to Bags Reflects Shifting Tastes

Ever since 2018, the popular collaboration between Nike and designer Riccardo Tisci had been dormant — until today. However, the first product from the reignited partnership departs from the series of sneakers previously offered for a $500 USD leather handbag called “The Mercer Bag.”

Surfacing as part of Nike’s SS25 lineup, the Italian-made bag is understated in comparison with Tisci’s tenures at Givenchy and Burberry, with a full body of solid-colored black pebble leather. Nike’s logo adorns the front flap with a subtle debossed application, while Tisci’s metal R.T. wordmark is fixed to the corner of the bag and the strap. Elsewhere, golden hardware facilitates easy removal and adjustment of the matching strap.

Tisci and Nike inaugurated their partnership in 2014 with an Air Force 1 collection boasting jacquard ankle straps. Later, they released reinterpretations of the Nike Air Cast 1 and NikeLab Dunk Lux High, Flyknit sneakers and an Air Zoom Legend boot. Their most recent collaboration took place in 2018 with the release of a mid-top Air Max 97 and an Air Force 1 High.

Though quiet in its sensibilities, the sudden pivot to a luxury bag for their first collaboration in seven years speaks to how the industry, and particularly the menswear market has evolved since 2018. While sneakers continue drive interest from younger consumers, the last few years have shown increased spending on luxury bags. Luxury resale platform The RealReal’s 2024 report showed that searches for men’s handbags grew 900% year-over-year last year, a shift that has steadily taken shape as men have warmed up to sporting luxury bags.

At the same time, Nike has struggled to generate interest with the overexposure of highly-sought sneakers and “lack of innovation” cited by many. The sports gear titan also recently announced a joint label with Kim Kardashian‘s shapewear line, NikeSKIMS, aiming to further connect with female consumers.

Perhaps the sudden release of the Mercer Bag can also be seen as part of a strategy to cast a wider net, while simultaneously gaining from the luxury price point. Nike made a similar move in its collaboration with French designer Jacquemus, creating a Swoosh-shaped handbag, now selling for $400 USD at the Nike web store. It’s possible that this is just the start of a hybrid-luxe strategy emerging from the Oregon-based company.

While stockist information is sparse, Nike and Riccardo Tisci’s new Mercer Bag is set for release on March 1 at select retailers. Stay tuned to Hypebeast for updates on the handbag release and a potentially larger collection in the works.