Yohji Yamamoto SS25 Makes Art From the Cutting Room Floor
At Paris’ Salons de l’Hotel De Ville, the Japanese designer debuted a collection that was raw, stripped-down and tastefully stitched back together.
Inside Paris’ Salons de l’Hotel De Ville, Japanese craftsman Yohji Yamamoto delivered a Spring 2025 collection that was beautifully tethered, manipulated, reconstructed and layered — all in pursuit of summoning his muse’s inner child. “Broken outfits,” the designer called his creations, for their pulled-apart and patched-together constructions, each of which was meticulously built, despite their apparent haphazardness.
To an arrangement on Bach, Gluck, Ravel, Japanese tiles and Leonard Cohen’s “You Want It Darker” played by pianist Pavel Koesnikov, Yamamoto’s latest fashion manifesto—a blend of traditional Japanese tailoring and contemporary cutting-room ploys— met Paris Fashion Week’s glitterati. Asymmetrical black dresses boasted sheer finishes and locked eyes with glaring red string; maroon iterations kept showgoers’ attention with intricate cut-out details and lace bodices, and more gowns appeared like unfinished jigsaw puzzles, with textile slabs sporadically placed all across the body.
Here, Yamamoto gleefully let go of any fashion “laws,” mixing knotted yarns, silky materials, cotton slabs and numbered prints together in singular ensembles, almost as if he sourced the best pieces from his cutting room floor and turned them into works of art. The chaotic results were and quite moody, operating on an almost entirely dark color palette. However, the final few pieces—flowing dresses and sleeveless blazers among them—beamed in true red. With just 43 looks, the collection’s vivid conclusion left you yearning for an encore. Those interested in a second act shall not fret: Yamamoto is launching an all-new book in partnership with M/M Paris this Sunday.
See Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
