Manhattan’s Kisa Is a Reimagination of South Korea’s Roadside Restaurants
The original “Kisa Sikdang” is a quick-stop diner designed to serve taxi drivers.
A new restaurant in Manhattan’s Lower East Side is recreating an experience unique to South Korea’s taxi culture. While most BBQ restaurants in South Korea are designed to be shared among multiple people, the “Kisa Sikdang” – which translates to “driver’s restaurant” – emerged in the ‘80s as a quick-stop roadside diner for solo patrons, predominantly taxi drivers.
Now open to the public, the namesake Kisa pays homage to the concept with a vibrant but compact menu of elevated Korean diner fare. Chef Simon Lee created the menu alongside Kisa’s partners David JoonWoo Yun, Steve JaeWoo Choi and Yong Min Kim, who previously founded another city hotspot, the Michelin Bib Gourmand-awarded C as in Charlie.
Four entrees make up the comforting, home-style menu: jeyuk (spicy pork), bulgogi (thinly-sliced beef), a bori (barley) bibimbap and ojingeo bokkeum (spicy squid). Gochujang and sweet soy sauce provide the base for flavors. Each entree is priced at $32 USD and comes served with rice and soup and an assortment of seasonal sides – the current rotation features kimchi, raw shrimp and a type of Korean pancake made with acorn flower called dotori jeon.
The interior of Kisa was designed to mimic the look of an original diner from 40 or so years ago. Korean calendars and vintage TVs adorn the atmosphere. On the way out, patrons can even use a traditional coin-slot coffee machine to receive a complimentary cup
Alex Lau
Available to visit now, Kisa is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Kisa
205 Allen St
New York, NY 10002
