Pierpaolo Piccioli Says Black Is the New Pink PP for Valentino FW24

At the Valentino Fall/Winter 2024 show during Paris Fashion Week, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli sang a different song than his previous collections. Clad in all-black, his collection made quite the statement and hard turn from his previous vibrant and eclectic uses of color. For its Fall/Winter 2022 collection, Piccioli took pretty in pink to a whole new level, creating head-to-toe monochromes in the hue, that later became best known as “Valentino Pink PP.” The fuschia neon pink color was seen across the world and was a fashion and marketing spectacle that led to the designer’s recent menswear collection which used a bright blue as the underlying tone.

PP sent out an all-black collection on the Parisian runway, calling it a reflection of the current times. In a preview, Piccioli said, “You have to be aware that you are in the dark to look for the light, and that was my starting point. Black is interesting, because it’s the color of these times and it’s very universal, but very individual.” Taking away color, Piccioli can better explore the masculine-feminine tropes, while focusing on the the dark hue’s powerful symbol of elegance across time. In the official statement, the designer discusses his choice to create an all-black collection, “I wear black as a uniform and I am aware of it – it allows me to focus on what’s around me, and I just like it. From the black I seek light, in black I refine my sight. I approached black as a canvas, a starting point on which to build layers and structures, silhouettes that could move while looking for the lights around, to soak them in and reflect them. It’s more of a composition as the result of different individualities. A choral architecture that keeps the light as the most precious secret. Only when in the dark you look for the light.”

Staying true to house codes, the collection takes from ’80s and sees Piccioli pair an oversized suit jacket with a sheer chiffon shirt. Sharp shouldered tunic dresses are contrasted with billowing chiffon blouses and ruffles on sheer blouses. The A-line skirt is paired with chunky biker boots while evening gowns remain chic and focused on how the pieces look in movement. Playing with silhouettes becomes the core of the collection, giving a new identity to Valentino. In 63 looks, Valentino steps away from its Barbiecore aesthetic, aiming to go back to the simplicity of black, possibly for better sales.