Blackmerle SS25 Is "Reduced Yet Severe"
The dystopic line includes the Seoul label’s first 925 silver jewelry pieces.
After dropping off a dark and dystopian collection for Fall/Winter 2024, Blackmerle is eyeing next season with a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that’s equally distorted and moody.
“Striking a fine balance between wearability and transgression is imperative to the label’s direction,” the Seoul-based label explained of its design ethos in the collection’s notes. “Creating garments that are ‘reduced yet severe’ which can both reveal and conceal the attitude of the wearer, quietly blending into the environment yet inadvertently standing out.”
Building on the palettes of seasons past, Blackmerle’s SS25 collection employs light greys with hints of lilac and pale purple-greys akin to the label’s signature “Rat Grey” tonal scheme. The brand similarly evolves its textural Rolodex, with the addition of a Washi paper fabric overdyed with Binchō-tan charcoal, which features natural wrinkles, organic shading and uneven streaks across its facade. Elsewhere, a lightweight cotton-linen typewriter textile, which also boasts a rutted feel, employs additional garment-dying to highlight its unevenness.
Outside of ready-to-wear, the label’s SS25 collection houses its first-ever 925 silver jewelry line, which was made in partnership with ceramic artist Siiot. The line includes hand-crafted ceramic rings cast with 925 silver, which highlights the fine details and intricate design processes involved in the creation of each piece.
Explore Blackmerle’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery above.
